Start your first morning in Santarém with coffee and pastries on the main square or praça in Santarém’s historic centre, with bright sunshine falling on the white steps and façade of the 17th-century cathedral, the Church of Our Lady of the Conception and the Jesuit College.
Pastelaria Bijou is tucked in a corner of the square. Their pampilhos (a long butter pastry filled with cinnamon custard and named for the shape of cattle herders’ sticks) are hailed by some critics as the best in the world. Or why not sample their legendary Celeste cakes, made with almonds, egg yolks and sugar – a heavenly treat that originated with nuns at the Santa Clara convent. Find a table and feast, while soaking up the atmosphere and getting a feel for the city. Santarém is shaped like a hand, and here you are in its palm.
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Santarém is known as the Capital of Gothic because it showcases the full story of the Gothic style. Don’t miss Church of Santa Maria da Graça, originally part of an Augustinian convent. The remains of Pedro Álvares Cabral (the Portuguese explorer credited with discovering Brazil) are honoured here. Stripped of all additions later than 1500, the clean modesty of the building’s mendicant Gothic style provides the perfect backdrop for its Flaming Gothic rose window.
Japanese-Peruvian food might not be the first thing you think of trying for lunch, but chef Rafael Duarte’s fusion offerings, like soft crunchy crab bao buns and stickily tender yakitori will open your eyes to the excitement of Santarém’s food scene right now. All this, in a welcoming and classy location overlooking the afore-mentioned magnificent rose window of Santa Maria da Graça.
Santarém’s historic centre is filled with ladies’ and menswear boutiques, backstreet bakeries and independent shops, and longstanding neighbourhood canteens. Dogs bask in the sunshine beside clean-swept doorsteps and you too can take your time, treasure-hunting your favourite patterned tiles on building after building. Such beauty for your Instagram feed.
Be at these gardens for glorious vistas at sunset or yoga at sunrise, or both. Remember, Santarém is shaped like a hand, so the Jardim das Portas do Sol is on the site of a former Roman citadel at the tip of the index finger of the town. Archaeological digs have uncovered vestiges here. It’s a beautiful park with a sense of opening out, pointing towards the river plains beyond and the River Tejo flowing impressively 100m below the city. Nearby, check out the picturesque Santiago archway, dating from at least the 13th century, through which countless Compostela pilgrims have passed.
In this destination restaurant, local chef Rodrigo Castelo brings neglected and delicious regional ingredients to the table in the place where he learnt to cook with his father. Be sure to book in advance for an unforgettable dining experience.
You’ll need to make an appointment to visit this hidden gem. An exquisite walled courtyard filled with fountains, citrus trees and roses leads to a museum and art collection in the private home of Pedro Canavarro, great-great-grandson of Portuguese politician and parliamentarian Passos Manuel.
Back in the historic centre, 
Among the limestone clay Ribatejo hillsides surrounding Santarém, there’s no shortage of quintas and vineyards where you can sample and stock up on local produce. Just 15 minutes outside the city, at family-run Quinta da Ribeirinha you’ll find a warm welcome and an introduction to their excellent range of sparkling, rosé and red wines.
This place is so successful it has three branches around town, but for the original experience, make sure you go to the one near the old market grounds on R. Pedro de Santarém. 
Just 15 mins drive from Santarém,